For years, I struggled with an in-ground garden. Our soil was heavy clay, and no matter how much compost I dug in, it always seemed to compact, making it tough for roots to really take hold. Weeds were a constant battle, and frankly, bending over all the time wasn’t doing my back any favors. That’s when I decided to try raised beds.
I started with just one small bed for strawberries back in 2013, curious if it would make a difference. What I found was a completely different gardening experience. The soil stayed loose, weeds were manageable, and my plants thrived. Since then, I’ve gradually added more, and now I rarely buy certain vegetables from the store anymore. If you’re thinking about jumping into raised bed gardening, here’s what I’ve learned along the way.
Don’t Try to Do It All at Once
When I first started, I saw all these perfect gardens on Instagram with multiple raised beds, and I felt like I had to build them all at once. I quickly realized that wasn’t sustainable, especially on a budget. Building a raised bed takes time and materials. I started with one, then added another the next year, and so on. Now, I have quite a few, but it was a gradual process over a decade. Give yourself permission to expand your garden little by little each season. It’s not a race.
Height Matters, But It’s Personal
One of the first things to consider is how tall you want your raised beds. I have beds ranging from about 8 inches all the way up to nearly 30 inches, and each has its pros and cons. My 15-inch beds feel pretty ideal, but it really depends on what you’re looking for.
Taller Beds (15+ inches)
I like taller beds because they’re much easier to work in. Less bending means less back strain, which is a big plus for me. Weeds are also less of an issue, as most don’t make it up from the ground below. Plus, if you have critters like rabbits, they generally can’t get into a bed that’s high off the ground.
The main drawback is the amount of material needed to fill them. It takes a lot of soil, even if you use filler like logs or branches at the bottom. Also, I’ve found that growing really tall crops like certain tomatoes or okra can make harvesting tricky if the bed itself is already tall.
Shorter Beds (under 15 inches)
My shorter beds, around 8 inches, are less expensive to build and fill. They also have a natural connection to the ground soil, which means roots can reach down for extra nutrients, and you get more microbial activity and earthworms. This can be a real benefit if your native soil isn’t great but you still want some connection.
The downside is you’ll still have to bend over more, and aggressive weeds like Bermuda grass can find their way in from the ground. Rabbits can also get into these beds easily if your garden isn’t fenced.
Choose Your Materials Wisely (and Cheaply)
When I first built my beds, I just used what I could find. Over time, I’ve learned that some materials hold up better than others. Cedar is a great choice because it lasts a long time without needing treatment. Pine is cheaper, but it won’t last as long. I always avoid treated lumber for anything I’m growing food in.
If you’re on a budget, look for scrap wood, used tin roofing, or even rough-cut lumber from a local sawmill. I’ve seen people repurpose stock tanks too. The key is to use natural, untreated materials that won’t leach chemicals into your soil. I made the mistake of using some old fence posts once that I wasn’t sure were treated, and I ended up tearing that bed apart to replace them.
Get Your Soil Right
This is probably the most crucial part of raised bed gardening. You can have the perfect bed, but if your soil isn’t good, your plants won’t thrive. I aim for a mix that’s rich in organic matter and drains well. My go-to is usually a blend of good quality topsoil, some sand or perlite for drainage, and a generous amount of compost. And I always fill the beds right up to the top – roots need that space.
Before adding soil, I line the bottom of my beds with newspaper and cardboard. This helps suppress weeds from below and keeps the good soil from washing out. It’s a simple step that makes a big difference.
Plan Your Layout (and Don’t Overcrowd)
One of the biggest advantages of raised beds is the ability to plant more intensively. However, it’s easy to get carried away and overcrowd. Before I buy any seeds or starts, I make a simple sketch of where everything will go. I list what I want to eat, decide what I’ll grow from seed versus transplants, and then map it out.
I also like to use trellises. They’re like high-rise apartments for plants and let me grow climbing vegetables like cucumbers, peas, pole beans, and even some cherry tomatoes vertically. I always put trellises on the north side of the bed so they don’t shade out other plants.
Easy Vegetables to Start With
If you’re just getting started, some vegetables are more forgiving than others. I’ve had great success with things like:
- Kale: This stuff is hardy. I’ve planted it before the last frost, and it keeps producing leaves all summer and even into mild winters. Just cut the outer leaves, and it keeps growing.
- Radishes: They grow fast, and the loose soil in raised beds is perfect for them. Daikon radishes also do really well.
- Leafy Greens: Lettuce, arugula, and Swiss chard are all pretty easy. I plant them closely together and harvest the outer leaves.
- Herbs: Basil, parsley, sage, and chives are very happy in raised beds. They’re also great for planting near vegetables to deter pests.
- Beans: Bush beans are super productive and don’t need a trellis. Pole beans are great if you have vertical space.
- Carrots and Parsnips: These root vegetables absolutely love the deep, stone-free soil of a raised bed. If you’ve ever tried to grow them in heavy clay, you’ll appreciate the difference.
When to Build Your Beds
You can really build raised beds anytime, but I’ve found that building them in the fall or late winter is ideal. This gives you time to get them filled and settled, so they’re ready to go as soon as spring planting season hits. There’s nothing worse than scrambling to build and fill beds when you should be planting.
Starting a raised bed garden doesn’t have to be complicated or expensive. It’s about learning what works for your space and your plants. These tips are what have made my gardening journey so much more enjoyable and productive.
